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Kinmen Island Travel Guide

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Darren McLean

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Kinmen Island Travel Guide​


Welcome to the taste2travel Kinmen Island Travel Guide!

Date Visited: September 2026​

Introduction​


Although Kinmen Island belongs to Taiwan, it lies just off the coast of mainland China. This fascinating destination combines a rich military history with traditional Fujian-style architecture and distinctive coastal scenery. As a result, a visit offers a revealing glimpse into Taiwan’s complex past.

This view of the Chinese mainland from the Mashan Observation Post shows just how close Kinmen Island is to China.

This view of the Chinese mainland from the Mashan Observation Post shows just how close Kinmen Island is to China.


Kinmen sits just a few kilometres offshore from Xiamen, a bustling Chinese city with a population of around 5.4 million. During the Cold War, this strategic location placed the island on the frontline of tensions between Taiwan and China.

A military mural at the entrance of the Mashan Observation Station.

A military mural at the entrance of the Mashan Observation Station.


During the Cold War, Taiwanese forces fought to prevent the Chinese army from capturing Kinmen. Today, however, visitors from mainland China arrive on frequent ferries, often as part of organised history tours. For ferry details, see the Getting There section below.

Due to its recent military history, Kinmen Island is full of fascinating military sites, such as Tungchiangshan Fort.

Due to its recent military history, Kinmen Island is full of fascinating military sites, such as Tungchiangshan Fort.

Kinmen Island Today​


Today, visitors can explore underground military tunnels, historic forts, bunkers and battlefield museums. Yet Kinmen offers much more than military history. Traditional villages, wind lions, beaches and local specialities—including sorghum liquor and beef jerky—also make the island worth exploring.

A Lego version of a 'Wind Lion', at the Jindong Cinema.

A Lego version of a ‘Wind Lion’, at the Jindong Cinema.


You will spot wind lions throughout Kinmen. These guardian statues, made from stone, ceramic or clay, date back to the 16th century. Residents placed them around the island to ward off strong winds, sandstorms, floods and evil spirits, especially after deforestation left the landscape exposed to harsh northeast monsoons. I even found a Lego version at Jindong Cinema.

A decorated southern Fujian-style (Minnan) house on Kinmen Island.

A decorated southern Fujian-style (Minnan) house on Kinmen Island.


Whether you enjoy history, culture or off-the-beaten-path adventures, Kinmen offers a rewarding alternative to Taiwan’s better-known destinations.

How much time should you allow?​


Allow three to four days to explore Kinmen’s main military sites, traditional villages and coastal attractions without rushing. The sights are spread across the island, so a rental scooter, car or full-day taxi can save time. Before renting, however, check the relevant licence and insurance requirements. For more ideas, visit the official Kinmen Tourism website, which lists attractions and suggested itineraries.

Location​




Kinmen is an island group administered by Taiwan, although it lies in the Taiwan Strait just off southeastern mainland China. The islands sit near the mouth of Xiamen Bay, in Fujian Province, within the East China Sea region.

Kinmen Island lies just a few kilometres offshore from the Chinese mainland.

Kinmen Island lies just a few kilometres offshore from the Chinese mainland.


Kinmen lies remarkably close to China. At its nearest point, the main island sits about 2 kilometres from the mainland, while Xiamen is roughly 10 kilometres away across the water. By comparison, Taiwan’s main island lies approximately 280 kilometres to the east. Geography, therefore, has given Kinmen closer ties to the neighbouring Fujian coast than its political status might suggest.

A view of a beach on the southwest coast of Kinmen Island.

A view of a beach on the southwest coast of Kinmen Island.


This unusual location has shaped Kinmen’s history, culture and strategic importance. Although Taiwan governs the islands, Kinmen retains strong cultural and historical links with neighbouring Fujian.

People​

Many Fujian-style houses on Kinmen Island feature Swallowtail roof ridges.

Many Fujian-style houses on Kinmen Island feature Swallowtail roof ridges.


Most Kinmen residents are Han Chinese, and their culture has deep roots in southern Fujian (Minnan), across the water in mainland China. Many families trace their ancestry to settlers who arrived centuries ago. Kinmen also attracted returning migrants who had made their fortunes in Singapore, Malaysia, Brunei and Indonesia.

When they came home, many built grand residences that reflected their overseas experiences. Consequently, the island blends traditional Minnan houses, Western-style mansions and military fortifications built after 1949.

Residents traditionally speak Kinmenese, a variety of Hokkien (Minnan Chinese). Mandarin is also widely used, particularly in schools and official settings. Meanwhile, traditional architecture, ancestral temples, clan customs and local festivals continue to reflect Kinmen’s Fujian heritage.

Many mansions on Kinmen Island, which were built by returning Chinese compatriots, combine Western and Chinese architectural influences.

Many mansions on Kinmen Island, which were built by returning Chinese compatriots, combine Western and Chinese architectural influences.


Kinmen’s frontline role in the conflict between Taiwan and mainland China has also shaped local identity. Memories of military service and past bombardments remain part of the island’s shared heritage. Today, residents balance these historical ties with their identity as part of Taiwan. Tourism, agriculture, fishing and sorghum-liquor production all contribute to the local economy.

History​

Kinmen Island has a rich, multi-layered history spanning thousands of years, including being a battleground during the Cold War years.

Kinmen Island has a rich, multi-layered history spanning thousands of years, including being a battleground during the Cold War years.


Kinmen Island, also known as Quemoy, has a long history shaped by its strategic position off Fujian Province. For centuries, residents maintained close cultural and economic ties with mainland China. Later, however, the island’s proximity to the Chinese coast turned it into a key military outpost during the conflict between Taiwan and the People’s Republic of China.

Early History​

Detail of the entrance of a home at Shanhou Folk Culture Village - which is famous for its many southern Fujian style homes.

Detail of the entrance of a home at Shanhou Folk Culture Village – which is famous for its many southern Fujian style homes.


Settlers from Fujian established communities on Kinmen many centuries ago. They brought their language, customs, religious traditions and distinctive architecture, much of which remains visible today. Fishing, farming and maritime trade sustained local communities, while villages developed around ancestral halls and temples.

Japanese Occupation​


Japan occupied Kinmen in 1937 during the Second Sino-Japanese War. Its forces remained on the island until the end of the Second World War in 1945, when Chinese Nationalist authorities regained control.

The Chinese Civil War​


The Chinese Civil War transformed Kinmen’s modern history. In 1949, the Chinese Communist Party established the People’s Republic of China on the mainland, while the defeated Nationalist government retreated to Taiwan and nearby islands. In October 1949, Communist forces tried to capture Kinmen during the Battle of Guningtou. Nationalist troops repelled the attack, however, and kept the island under the Republic of China government. Kinmen consequently became a frontline stronghold.

The Cold War and Military Conflict​


During the 1950s and 1960s, Kinmen became a focal point of military tensions. Chinese forces repeatedly shelled the island, particularly during the Second Taiwan Strait Crisis in 1958. The bombardments damaged buildings and put civilians at risk.

Artwork at the Guningtou Battle Museum which commemorates the Battle of Guningtou, where ROC forces defeated a PLA attack.

Artwork at the Guningtou Battle Museum which commemorates the Battle of Guningtou, where ROC forces defeated a PLA attack.


In response, Taiwan built extensive defences across Kinmen. These included underground tunnels, coastal fortifications, artillery positions, bunkers and troop shelters. Engineers carved many structures into the island’s granite landscape to protect soldiers from enemy fire.

The underground tunnel which leads to the Mashan Observation Post.

The underground tunnel which leads to the Mashan Observation Post.


Although large-scale fighting eventually declined, Kinmen remained heavily militarised for decades. Military restrictions shaped daily life, and authorities tightly controlled access to many areas.

From Military Outpost to Tourist Destination​

A view of beautiful Hushan Bay, with rows of anti-landing piles, as seen from the roof of the Boat-Shaped Fortress.

A view of beautiful Hushan Bay, with rows of anti-landing piles, as seen from the roof of the Boat-Shaped Fortress.


Taiwan ended martial law in 1987, and Kinmen gradually opened as military restrictions eased. In 2001, direct transport links with mainland China resumed, making travel between Kinmen and nearby Fujian cities easier.

A shell-encrusted, roadside tank monument, on Kinmen Island.

A shell-encrusted, roadside tank monument, on Kinmen Island.


Today, Taiwan continues to administer Kinmen, while its proximity to mainland China gives it a unique place in cross-strait relations. Visitors can explore preserved battlefields, underground tunnels, historic forts, military museums and traditional Fujian-style villages.

Kinmen has transformed from a heavily fortified frontline into a peaceful destination. Its surviving military sites offer insight into the region’s complex history and remind visitors of the tensions that once shaped everyday life.

Flag​

The flag of the Republic of China (Taiwan).

The flag of the Republic of China (Taiwan).


Taiwan’s flag, officially the flag of the Republic of China (ROC), has a red field and a blue canton in the upper-left corner. The canton contains a white sun with 12 triangular rays. The red field symbolises the blood shed by revolutionary martyrs, while the blue canton represents liberty and democracy. The white sun stands for progress, justice and equality. Its 12 rays represent the traditional 12 two-hour periods of the Chinese day and symbolise continuous progress.

The flag of Taiwan, flying over Kinmen Island.

The flag of Taiwan, flying over Kinmen Island.


Adopted in 1928, the flag is commonly known as the Blue Sky, White Sun, and Wholly Red Earth flag. It represents the Republic of China, which governs Taiwan and outlying islands such as Kinmen and Matsu.

Currency​

My collection of uncirculated New Taiwan dollar banknotes.

My collection of uncirculated New Taiwan dollar banknotes.


Taiwan uses the New Taiwan dollar (TWD), usually abbreviated as NT$ or NTD.

My full set of uncirculated Taiwanese (NTD) banknotes - obverse view.

My full set of uncirculated Taiwanese (NTD) banknotes – obverse view.


Banknotes are issued by the Central Bank of the Republic of China, in denominations of NT$100, NT$200, NT$500, NT$1,000 and NT$2,000. Coins are issued in denominations of NT$1, NT$5, NT$10, NT$20 and NT$50.

My full set of uncirculated Taiwanese (NTD) banknotes - reverse view.

My full set of uncirculated Taiwanese (NTD) banknotes – reverse view.


Travel tip: Carry some cash for night markets, small restaurants and local shops. However, many larger businesses also accept credit cards and mobile payments.

Exchange Rate​


As of October 2026, US$100 = NTD 3,237.70 Click to check the current exchange rate.

Costs​

Travel Costs in Taiwan​


Taiwan caters to a wide range of budgets. You can choose affordable hostels and night-market meals, for example, or spend more on boutique hotels, private tours and luxury resorts.

Food and public transport are generally affordable, especially outside Taipei. To save money, eat at local eateries, use the railway network and book accommodation early. By contrast, international-standard hotels, private tours and high-end restaurants can quickly raise daily costs. The estimates below show typical daily costs per person for independent travel in Taiwan. They include accommodation, meals, local transport and sightseeing, but exclude international flights.

Daily Travel Budget Guide​


Estimated costs per person, in 2026 (international flights excluded):

  • Budget Traveller: US$35–65 (NT$1,120–2,080)
  • Mid-Range Traveller: US$85–190 (NT$2,720–6,080)
  • Top-end Traveller: US$260–650+ (NT$8,320–20,800+)

How much does a trip to Taiwan cost?​


Use the estimates below to plan your overall spending for one person travelling around Taiwan. They exclude international flights, travel insurance and major shopping.

7 daysUS$245–455US$595–1,330US$1,820–4,550+
10 daysUS$350–650US$850–1,900US$2,600–6,500+
14 daysUS$490–910US$1,190–2,660US$3,640–9,100+
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Overall, Taiwan offers good value for independent travellers. Around US$50–60 per day may suit a budget-conscious visitor, while US$100–150 can provide a comfortable trip. If you prefer luxury accommodation and private experiences, allow considerably more.

Typical Prices in Taiwan​


These sample prices provide a useful starting point when planning your trip.

Night-market mealUS$2–6
Local restaurant mealUS$4–12
Coffee or bubble teaUS$2–4
Hostel dorm bedUS$15–30 per night
Budget hotel roomUS$30–60 per night
Comfortable hotel roomUS$60–120 per night
Taipei MRT journeyAround US$0.50–2
Intercity high-speed trainUS$10–50+, depending on route
Museum or paid attractionUS$3–20
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Sightseeing​

Due to it being an outpost of Taiwan, Kinmen Island has escaped the rampant development of mainland Taiwan - which has allowed it to preserve its unique heritage and architecture.

Due to it being an outpost of Taiwan, Kinmen Island has escaped the rampant development of mainland Taiwan – which has allowed it to preserve its unique heritage and architecture.


Kinmen combines Cold War history, traditional Fujian architecture, historic villages and scenic coastal landscapes. Because the island lies just off mainland China, it preserves a remarkable collection of forts, underground tunnels and battle sites from its former frontline role in the conflict between Taiwan and China.

Due to its former military history, there are many tanks on display around Kinmen Island, such as this one which is parked in the car park at the Zhaishan Tunnel complex.

Due to its former military history, there are many tanks on display around Kinmen Island, such as this one which is parked in the car park at the Zhaishan Tunnel complex.


Beyond its military heritage, Kinmen features stone-built villages, elaborate ancestral temples, wind-lion statues and peaceful wetlands. Here are the main sights to include in your itinerary.

Shuitou Village​

Shuitou Village is home to many fine examples of southern Fujian-style (Minnan) red-brick houses with their iconic 'swallowtail' gables.

Shuitou Village is home to many fine examples of southern Fujian-style (Minnan) red-brick houses with their iconic ‘swallowtail’ gables.


Shuitou Village, southwest of Jincheng Township, is a historic settlement with around 700 years of history. The Huang clan played a major role in its development, and today the village showcases one of Kinmen’s richest collections of preserved architecture.

Shuitou Village features a mixture of Western-style and Chinese-style architecture.

Shuitou Village features a mixture of Western-style and Chinese-style architecture.


During the 19th and 20th centuries, Shuitou served as an important transport hub and departure point for villagers migrating to Southeast Asia, including Singapore and Indonesia. Many later sent money home to build grand family residences.

Shuitou Village features Fujian-style red brick homes with 'swallowtail' gables.

Shuitou Village features Fujian-style red brick homes with ‘swallowtail’ gables.


Shuitou is known for its mix of traditional southern Fujian (Minnan) red-brick courtyard houses and angular Western-style buildings with Baroque influences. Look for decorative swallowtail roof ridges and intricate stone carvings on the traditional homes.

Shuitou Village is famous for its many southern Fujian-style (Minnan) red-brick courtyard houses.

Shuitou Village is famous for its many southern Fujian-style (Minnan) red-brick courtyard houses.


Shuitou Village sits beside Shuitou Pier, Kinmen’s main passenger ferry terminal. From here, regular ferries reach Little Kinmen (Lieyu Township) in about 10 minutes, while other services cross the strait to mainland China.

Red roofs frame a Western-style mansion in Shuitou Village.

Red roofs frame a Western-style mansion in Shuitou Village.


Look closely at the entrances of Shuitou’s Fujian-style houses. Carvings around the doorframes and lintels feature auspicious symbols such as dragons, phoenixes, lotuses and longevity peaches, which represent wealth, peace and good fortune.

The decorated entrance of a traditional southern Fujian-style home in Shuitou Village.

The decorated entrance of a traditional southern Fujian-style home in Shuitou Village.

Deyue Tower​

Deyue Tower, a defensive watchtower, guards the entrance to Shuitou Village.

Deyue Tower, a defensive watchtower, guards the entrance to Shuitou Village.


Built in 1931, Deyue Tower stands more than 11 metres tall. Wealthy overseas Chinese merchants funded the defensive watchtower to help protect the village from bandits and pirates. Huang Huihuang, a Kinmen-born businessman who made his fortune in Indonesia, funded the tower.

The Deyue Tower is surrounded by a cluster of southern-Fujian style red-brick buildings and Western-style mansions.

The Deyue Tower is surrounded by a cluster of southern-Fujian style red-brick buildings and Western-style mansions.


Piracy and coastal banditry were common at the time, and robberies in the 1920s heightened local concerns. The family therefore used the tower as both a lookout and an emergency stronghold. The tower combines traditional southern Fujian (Minnan) design with Western and Baroque influences. The tower sits within an easy-to-explore cluster of historic Minnan courtyard houses and Western-style mansions. You can also visit the nearby Jinshui Elementary School Museum.

Jinshui Elementary School​

Constructed in 1932, Jinshui Elementary School combines both Chinese and Western architectural elements.

Constructed in 1932, Jinshui Elementary School combines both Chinese and Western architectural elements.


Also in Shuitou Village, Jinshui Elementary School is Kinmen’s largest historic school building. Overseas remittances helped fund its construction. After a period of abandonment, the building became a museum with displays about Kinmen’s people and their history of emigration.

Jinshui Elementary School was constructed using funds from overseas Chinese compatriots.

Jinshui Elementary School was constructed using funds from overseas Chinese compatriots.


The school opened in 1932 with funding from overseas Chinese and local members of the Huang family. Its design blends traditional Chinese layouts with Western details. At the entrance, a Baroque-style gable features carved angels.

Formerly abandoned, Jinshui Elementary School today serves are a museum.

Formerly abandoned, Jinshui Elementary School today serves are a museum.


Today, the former school houses exhibits on Kinmen’s history, the stories of overseas Kinmen residents, women’s lives in earlier times and traditional classrooms.

Zhaishan Tunnel​

Zhaishan Tunnel is one of the most impressive military sights on Kinmen Island.

Zhaishan Tunnel is one of the most impressive military sights on Kinmen Island.


Zhaishan Tunnel is one of Kinmen’s most impressive military attractions. Engineers excavated this enormous granite complex during the Cold War to shelter landing craft. Completed in 1966, it includes a waterway that leads to the sea. Today, visitors can walk through the tunnel and see the scale of Kinmen’s wartime defences.

Zhaishan Tunnel was designed with an A-shape to let up to 42 small vessels enter, dock, and turn around.

Zhaishan Tunnel was designed with an A-shape to let up to 42 small vessels enter, dock, and turn around.


Rising cross-strait tensions after the artillery battle of 23 August 1958 prompted the project. Construction began in 1961 and finished on 22 March 1966.

Carved from solid granite, Zhaishan tunnel is about 357 metres long, 11.5 metres wide, and 8 metres high.

Carved from solid granite, Zhaishan tunnel is about 357 metres long, 11.5 metres wide, and 8 metres high.

Tunnel Construction​


Troops worked in shifts around the clock, carving through solid granite-gneiss with basic drills and small explosive charges. The main waterway measures about 357 metres long, 11.5 metres wide and 8 metres high. Its A-shaped layout allowed up to 42 small vessels to enter, dock and turn around.

Water depth in the Zhaishan Tunnel is affected by the tides with a typical depth range between 4-8 metres.

Water depth in the Zhaishan Tunnel is affected by the tides with a typical depth range between 4-8 metres.


The tunnel’s main purpose was to shelter, dock and resupply small naval landing craft during artillery attacks. Since the waterway connects to the sea, its depth changes with the tides—from about 4 metres at low tide to 8 metres at high tide.

Abandonment and Rebirth​


The military abandoned the tunnel in 1986 because silting reduced its usefulness and its strategic value declined. Later, Kinmen National Park took over the site and reopened it to the public in 1998.

Access to Zhaishan Tunnel is via an underground stairway which has been carved out of the granite.

Access to Zhaishan Tunnel is via an underground stairway which has been carved out of the granite


Visitors enter the tunnel by descending a flight of stairs carved into the granite. Admission is free.

Several tanks are on display in the car park at the Zhaishan Tunnel complex.

Several tanks are on display in the car park at the Zhaishan Tunnel complex.


Above ground, several tanks are on display in the Zhaishan Tunnel parking lot.

Tungchiangshan Fort​

The entrance to Tungchiangshan Fort, a coastal fortification on the southwest coast of Kinmen Island

The entrance to Tungchiangshan Fort, a coastal fortification on the southwest coast of Kinmen Island


A short drive from Zhaishan Tunnel, Tungchiangshan Fort (also spelled Tongqiangshan Fort) overlooks Kinmen’s southwestern coast near Gugang and Zhushan. This historic stronghold dates from the Cold War.

A panoramic view of the southwest coast of Kinmen Island, from Tungchiangshan Fort.

A panoramic view of the southwest coast of Kinmen Island, from Tungchiangshan Fort.


Construction began in 1960. Builders used thick granite blocks to create a fort capable of withstanding heavy bombardment. The coastal defence complex includes stone walls, ground-level shelters, artillery bunkers, barracks and storage areas.

With a commanding view over the southwest coast, Tungchiangshan Fort features bunkers and several tunnels.

With a commanding view over the southwest coast, Tungchiangshan Fort features bunkers and several tunnels.


A two-level tunnel system runs beneath the rocky terrain. Above ground, the fort overlooks the rugged shores and reefs along Kinmen’s southwest coast, which provided a natural barrier against approaching forces.

A view of the southwest coast of Kinmen Island from Tungchiangshan Fort.

A view of the southwest coast of Kinmen Island from Tungchiangshan Fort.


Like many sites managed by Kinmen National Park, the fort has free admission and no on-site attendant.

Like most sights on Kinmen Island, Tungchiangshan Fort is administered by the Kinmen National Park Service. Admission is free and the site is unattended.

Like most sights on Kinmen Island, Tungchiangshan Fort is administered by the Kinmen National Park Service. Admission is free and the site is unattended.

Shanhou Folk Culture Village​

The Shanhou Folk Culture Village is a carefully preserved village which showcases traditional Minnan, or southern Fujian, architecture.

The Shanhou Folk Culture Village is a carefully preserved village which showcases traditional Minnan, or southern Fujian, architecture.


The Shanhou Folk Culture Village is one of Kinmen’s highlights and one of the island’s finest examples of traditional southern Fujian architecture.

Detail of one of the traditional houses at the Shanhou Folk Culture Village.

Detail of one of the traditional houses at the Shanhou Folk Culture Village.


Located in Jinsha Township in northeastern Kinmen, this preserved settlement offers insight into the island’s cultural heritage and the lives of prosperous overseas Chinese families.

Shanhou Folk Culture Village features 16 traditional residential houses which were built by the Wang family.

Shanhou Folk Culture Village features 16 traditional residential houses which were built by the Wang family.

Shanhou Village Development​


Local merchants Wang Guo-chen and his son, Wang Jing-xiang, developed the village after making their fortunes through trade with Japan. They then invested in a traditional settlement for their extended family back home.

The preserved village showcases traditional Minnan, or southern Fujian, architecture.

The preserved village showcases traditional Minnan, or southern Fujian, architecture.


Construction began in 1876, during the Qing dynasty, and continued for about 24 years until around 1900. The Wang family sourced building materials from Fujian and Jiangxi provinces on the mainland, reflecting Kinmen’s close historical ties with China.

A view of one of the laneways at Shanhou Folk Culture Village.

A view of one of the laneways at Shanhou Folk Culture Village.


Today, the carefully preserved village showcases traditional Minnan, or southern Fujian, architecture. Its houses follow a symmetrical plan, with courtyards and adjoining wings arranged in a distinctive pattern.

Detail of the entrance to one of the houses at Shanhou Folk Culture Village.

Detail of the entrance to one of the houses at Shanhou Folk Culture Village.


Red-brick walls, elaborate roof decorations and quiet courtyards make Shanhou an excellent place to appreciate Kinmen’s architecture and traditional village life.

The laneways of Shanhou Folk Culture Village are laid out on a symmetrical grid.

The laneways of Shanhou Folk Culture Village are laid out on a symmetrical grid.


Visitors can wander the historic lanes, admire traditional houses and explore the ancestral hall and former school. Photographers will enjoy the decorative details, while the peaceful setting offers a welcome change from Kinmen’s military attractions.

Shishan (Mount Lion) Howitzer Front​

Shishan (Mount Lion) Howitzer Front is a well-preserved artillery installation which once housed four powerful howitzers.

Shishan (Mount Lion) Howitzer Front is a well-preserved artillery installation which once housed four powerful howitzers.


A short walk uphill from Shanhou Folk Culture Village, the Shishan (Mount Lion) Howitzer Front offers a fascinating look at Kinmen’s military past. This well-preserved artillery installation sits inside a mountain.

With 778 metres of drivable tunnels, the Shishan (Mount Lion) Howitzer Front complex would make an ideal movie set for a James Bond film.

With 778 metres of drivable tunnels, the Shishan (Mount Lion) Howitzer Front complex would make an ideal movie set for a James Bond film.


The former artillery base features an extensive network of tunnels designed to protect heavy guns and their crews from bombardment. Today, visitors can explore the underground passages and see the artillery pieces that once defended the island. It is a rewarding stop for anyone interested in military engineering or Cold War history.

The tunnels at the Shishan (Mount Lion) Howitzer Front house a variety of powerful guns.

The tunnels at the Shishan (Mount Lion) Howitzer Front house a variety of powerful guns.


Construction of the Shishan artillery position began in 1969 under orders from President Chiang Kai-shek. The base housed four American-made 8-inch M115 howitzers. By placing the guns and their crews inside the mountain, the military could protect them while maintaining substantial firepower against attacks from the mainland.

A network of tunnels, deep inside the mountain, were carved out of hard granite stone - making the complex bomb-proof.

A network of tunnels, deep inside the mountain, were carved out of hard granite stone – making the complex bomb-proof.


The M115 howitzer could fire shells approximately 17 kilometres. Its heavy ammunition and considerable destructive power made it an important part of Kinmen’s coastal defences.

One of the American-made 8-inch M115 howitzers at the Shishan (Mount Lion) Howitzer Front.

One of the American-made 8-inch M115 howitzers at the Shishan (Mount Lion) Howitzer Front.

Underground Tunnels​


The underground network stretches for about 778 metres and connects the gun positions with supporting facilities. Inside, visitors can see gun emplacements, ammunition-handling areas and other features that show how soldiers operated in the fortified complex. Preserved equipment and displays bring Kinmen’s military history to life.

Empty artillery rounds, stored inside one of the many storerooms, at the Shishan (Mount Lion) Howitzer Front.

Empty artillery rounds, stored inside one of the many storerooms, at the Shishan (Mount Lion) Howitzer Front.

Boat-Shaped Fortress​

Built to resemble a stranded battleship or warship, the boat-shaped fortress was originally constructed for coastal defence.

Built to resemble a stranded battleship or warship, the boat-shaped fortress was originally constructed for coastal defence.


A short drive from Shanhou Folk Culture Village, the Boat-Shaped Fortress, officially known as Chuan Xing Fort, stands on Hushan Bay in Houbian, Jinsha Township. This unusual stronghold dates from the Cold War.

A view of the top level of the Boat-Shaped Fortress.

A view of the top level of the Boat-Shaped Fortress.


The three-level stone structure resembles a stranded battleship. Builders designed it for coastal defence and military deception during periods of cross-strait tension.

A view of the coastline from the roof of the Boat-Shaped Fortress.

A view of the coastline from the roof of the Boat-Shaped Fortress.


From the rooftop terrace, you can enjoy panoramic views of the coastline and its rows of anti-landing piles.

The beach in front of the Boat-Shaped Fortress is lined with anti-landing piles.

The beach in front of the Boat-Shaped Fortress is lined with anti-landing piles.


The Kinmen National Park Administration manages this unattended site. On the second floor, an exhibition explains Kinmen’s battlefield history.

The beach in front of the Boat-Shaped Fortress is lined with three rows of anti-landing piles.

The beach in front of the Boat-Shaped Fortress is lined with three rows of anti-landing piles.


After the military decommissioned the fortress, three rows of anti-landing piles remained along the beach.

Mashan Observation Station​

The entrance to the tunnel which leads to the Mashan Observation Station.

The entrance to the tunnel which leads to the Mashan Observation Station.


The Mashan Observation Station is a historic military lookout at the northern tip of Kinmen Island. It lies about 2.1 kilometres from Jiaoyu Islet, which belongs to mainland China.

A 174-metre-long tunnel leads to the Mashan Observation Station.

A 174-metre-long tunnel leads to the Mashan Observation Station.


During the Cold War, Taiwanese soldiers used this strategic outpost to monitor military and maritime activity along the Chinese coast. Today, visitors can walk through the underground tunnel and look across the narrow stretch of water to mainland China.

An array of binoculars at the Mashan Observation Station.

An array of binoculars at the Mashan Observation Station.


The lookout shows just how close Kinmen lies to mainland China and explains why the island held such strategic importance.

The view across to mainland China from inside the bunker at the Mashan Observation Station.

The view across to mainland China from inside the bunker at the Mashan Observation Station.


To reach the lookout, visitors walk through a narrow, 174-metre underground tunnel. The wartime passage leads to a fortified bunker overlooking the sea. Together, the tunnel and bunker offer a glimpse into Kinmen’s former frontline role during the military standoff between Taiwan and mainland China.

A military mural at the entrance of the Mashan Observation Station.

A military mural at the entrance of the Mashan Observation Station.


Visit on a clear day for the best views across the strait. Allow 30–60 minutes to explore the tunnel and bunker. Admission is free; published opening hours are generally 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Jinsha Township​

Traditional Minnan design, on the wall of a house, in Jinsha Township.

Traditional Minnan design, on the wall of a house, in Jinsha Township.


Located a short drive from Mashan Observation Station, Jinsha Township occupies the northeastern corner of Kinmen Island. It is known for its Minnan heritage, Shamei Wan’an Temple and Shamei Old Street.

Shamei Wan’an Temple​

At around 750 years old, the Shamei Wan’an Temple is one of the oldest temples on Kinmen Island.

At around 750 years old, the Shamei Wan’an Temple is one of the oldest temples on Kinmen Island.


At around 750 years old, Shamei Wan’an Temple is one of Kinmen’s oldest temples. It dates to the Yuan dynasty (1271–1368) and has undergone three major reconstructions. Today, the temple reflects both Buddhist and Taoist traditions.

A tiger with illuminated eyes at the Shamei Wan’an Temple.

A tiger with illuminated eyes at the Shamei Wan’an Temple.


The temple honours Emperor Baosheng, the God of Medicine. In the past, people prayed to him for healing when medical care was scarce. The temple also blends Buddhist and Taoist practices.

Shamei Old Street​

Abandoned houses on Shamei Old Street in Jinsha Township.

Abandoned houses on Shamei Old Street in Jinsha Township.


Shamei Old Street is one of Kinmen’s earliest commercial districts. Locals once called it “Gossip Street”; its winding layout helped deflect strong coastal winds. The street later became a busy shopping area for military personnel stationed on the island.

Playful Minnan-style design in Jinsha Township.

Playful Minnan-style design in Jinsha Township.


Today, many buildings along the street stand abandoned, giving the area a faded, atmospheric feel.

Jindong Cinema​

Built in 1960, the Jindong Cinema was primarily constructed to entertaining frontline officers.

Built in 1960, the Jindong Cinema was primarily constructed to entertaining frontline officers.


In Yangzhai village, Jinsha Township, the Jindong Cinema is a historic movie theatre with a strong connection to Kinmen’s military past. Built in 1960, the cinema has the simple, practical design common to mid-20th-century buildings on Kinmen. Its vintage façade evokes an earlier cinema era; however, the building is better described as a functional post-war structure than a classic Art Deco example.

Lego displays at the Jindong Cinema, featuring a Taiwanese postal worker, and post box, in the standard green colours of Taiwan Post.

Lego displays at the Jindong Cinema, featuring a Taiwanese postal worker, and post box, in the standard green colours of Taiwan Post.


Jindong Cinema offers a glimpse into Kinmen’s Cold War history, when the island faced mainland China as a heavily fortified frontline. The military built the cinema primarily to entertain officers stationed on the island.

A view of the interior of the Jindong Cinema.

A view of the interior of the Jindong Cinema.


Today, the restored cinema is a recognised historic building and a popular stop for visitors exploring Yangzhai Old Street. It also serves as a cultural landmark and a reminder of Kinmen’s military past.

At the time of my visit, the Jindong Cinema was showing free screenings of the Lego movies.

At the time of my visit, the Jindong Cinema was showing free screenings of the Lego movies.


Add the cinema to your military-history itinerary, especially if you plan to explore the bunkers, coastal defences and former military installations in eastern Kinmen. At the time of my visit, the cinema was showing free screenings of the Lego movies.

Chen Jinglan Western-style Mansion​

The largest Western-style mansion in Kinmen, Chen Jinglan Mansion was built by a Singapore-based Chinese businessman.

The largest Western-style mansion in Kinmen, Chen Jinglan Mansion was built by a Singapore-based Chinese businessman.


Located in Chenggong Village, Jinhu Township, Chen Jinglan Western-style Mansion is Kinmen’s largest Western-style house. It covers 1,590 square metres across two floors and features a white exterior, symmetrical archways and fine carvings.

A view of the 2nd floor balcony at Chen Jinglan Western-style Mansion.

A view of the 2nd floor balcony at Chen Jinglan Western-style Mansion.


Singapore-based businessman Chen Jing-lan began building the mansion in 1917 and completed it in 1921.

A view of the interior of the Chen Jinglan Western-style Mansion.

A view of the interior of the Chen Jinglan Western-style Mansion.


The mansion later served as a military hospital, Kinmen Secondary School and a holiday centre for soldiers. It eventually opened to the public as an exhibition space.

A view of one of the many rooms inside the Chen Jinglan Western-style Mansion.

A view of one of the many rooms inside the Chen Jinglan Western-style Mansion.


The mansion generally opens daily from 8:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., and admission is free.

Situated below the Western-style Mansion, Jin Tang Park is home to a Statue of Liberty replica.

Situated below the Western-style Mansion, Jin Tang Park is home to a Statue of Liberty replica.


Below the mansion, tiny Jin Tang Park slopes towards the coast and features a replica Statue of Liberty. The unexpected landmark echoes the Western influences seen in the mansion’s symmetrical arches and ornate details.

Beishan Broadcasting Wall​

The Beishan Broadcasting Wall was a Cold War installation featuring 48 powerful loudspeakers.

The Beishan Broadcasting Wall was a Cold War installation featuring 48 powerful loudspeakers.


The Beishan Broadcasting Wall is one of Kinmen’s most unusual Cold War landmarks. Built in 1967, this imposing concrete structure housed loudspeakers that broadcast political messages, news and music across the sea to mainland China. It became a tool of psychological warfare during the confrontation between the Republic of China on Taiwan and the People’s Republic of China.

A view of the sandy beach which is overlooked by the Beishan Broadcasting Wall.

A view of the sandy beach which is overlooked by the Beishan Broadcasting Wall.


The wall is a striking example of military infrastructure. Rows of circular speaker openings cover its massive concrete façade, creating a honeycomb-like appearance.

A view, across to mainland China, from the Beishan Broadcast Wall.

A view, across to mainland China, from the Beishan Broadcast Wall.


Rather than acting as a conventional fort, the structure housed 48 loudspeakers that projected sound across the strait. The wall stands about as tall as a three-storey building.

The view across to mainland China from the Beishan Broadcasting Wall.

The view across to mainland China from the Beishan Broadcasting Wall.


From its position overlooking the sea at Guningtou, the wall could transmit broadcasts up to about 25 kilometres. Messages included political commentary, news, appeals urging opposing soldiers to defect and programmes designed to maintain morale.

For decades, the Beishan Broadcasting Wall served as a psychological-warfare tool while Kinmen stood on the frontline between the Republic of China on Taiwan and the People’s Republic of China. Today, the wall plays patriotic songs at the top of each hour, at a much lower volume for visitors.

Guningtou Battle Museum​

Built to resemble a fortress, the Guningtou Battle Museum commemorates the Battle of Guningtou.

Built to resemble a fortress, the Guningtou Battle Museum commemorates the Battle of Guningtou.


Near the Beishan Broadcasting Wall, the Guningtou Battle Museum commemorates the Battle of Guningtou (25–27 October 1949). During the 56-hour battle, Nationalist (ROC) forces repelled an amphibious assault by Communist (PLA) troops. The victory marked a turning point in the Chinese Civil War and helped establish the cross-strait status quo.

The Guningtou Battle Museum is built on the historic battlefield.

The Guningtou Battle Museum is built on the historic battlefield.


The museum stands on the historic battlefield. Its reinforced-concrete, fortress-style design evokes a military stronghold.

Artwork, and military memorabilia, at the Guningtou Battle Museum.

Artwork, and military memorabilia, at the Guningtou Battle Museum.


Inside, exhibits, military artefacts, artworks and battlefield memorials explain why Kinmen became such an important defensive outpost.

Artworks inside the museum depict the Battle of Guningtou where Nationalist (ROC) forces repelled an amphibious assault by Communist (PLA) troops.

Artworks inside the museum depict the Battle of Guningtou where Nationalist (ROC) forces repelled an amphibious assault by Communist (PLA) troops.

Triangle Fortress​

The Ci Lake Triangle Fortress is so named due to its triangular shape.

The Ci Lake Triangle Fortress is so named due to its triangular shape.


Ci Lake Triangle Fortress is a historic coastal stronghold near the Guningtou battlefield. As its name suggests, the fort has a triangular layout, with a moat-like defensive trench and concrete combat positions surrounding the structure.

A view of the, once heavily mined, beach - in front of the Triangle Fortress.

A view of the, once heavily mined, beach – in front of the Triangle Fortress.


The fortress once guarded the frontline. Barbed wire and land mines also sealed off the nearby beach until 2003, when authorities cleared the area and transferred it to Kinmen National Park.

Once heavily mined, the beach in front of the triangle fortress still features rows of anti-landing piles.

Once heavily mined, the beach in front of the triangle fortress still features rows of anti-landing piles.


Today, several rows of anti-landing piles still line the beach.

Adjacent to the Triangle Fortress, six decommissioned military tanks are lined up along the shore.

Adjacent to the Triangle Fortress, six decommissioned military tanks are lined up along the shore.


Six decommissioned military tanks stand in a row beside the fortress along the sea dyke. Their barrels point towards the ocean and mainland across the strait, forming a symbolic line of defence and a statement of sovereignty.

Jincheng Township​


Jincheng Township is Kinmen County’s political, economic, cultural and transport centre. Located in the island’s southwest, the town is also known locally and historically as Houpu. With a history spanning around 600–700 years, Jincheng combines traditional southern Fujian architecture, overseas Chinese influences and a deep military heritage.

Wudao City God Temple​

Wudao City God Temple is dedicated to the city God of Jincheng.

Wudao City God Temple is dedicated to the city God of Jincheng.


During my visit, I stayed in Jincheng Old Town. It made an ideal base, with cafés, restaurants and shops close by.

The Wudao City God Temple stood directly opposite my hotel. Like many towns in China and Taiwan, Jincheng has a City God, traditionally believed to protect the town and ensure adequate rainfall. Kinmen’s temple originally stood in Jinmencheng, an older village a few kilometres away. In 1682, the island’s first military administrator moved it to Jincheng.

More than 300 years old, the Wudao City God Temple was relocated to its present location from a nearby village.

More than 300 years old, the Wudao City God Temple was relocated to its present location from a nearby village.


The temple hosts the annual Wudao City God Parade on the 12th day of the fourth lunar month, one of Kinmen’s major cultural festivals. Visit in the evening to see the building illuminated.

Houpu 16 Arts Zone​

Traditional shops in the Houpu 16 Arts Zone of Jincheng old town.

Traditional shops in the Houpu 16 Arts Zone of Jincheng old town.


Located in the heart of the old town, on Juguang Road, Houpu 16 Arts Zone is Kinmen’s first cultural and creative special zone. The area combines historic Minnan (southern Fujian) architecture with contemporary creativity. You’ll find small shops, lively cafés, bookshops, artisan workshops and restaurants.

A fully stocked bookshop, which is also a café, in the Houpu 16 Arts Zone.

A fully stocked bookshop, which is also a café, in the Houpu 16 Arts Zone.

Accommodation​

My comfortable room at the Jin Zhan Hotel in Jincheng old town.

My comfortable room at the Jin Zhan Hotel in Jincheng old town.


During my visit, I stayed at the mid-range Jin Zhan Hotel, located in the heart of Jincheng Old Town.

The bathroom of my room at the Jin Zhan Hotel.

The bathroom of my room at the Jin Zhan Hotel.


A standard room starts at around US$70 per night, including breakfast. The hotel was immaculately clean, with spacious and comfortable rooms.

Eating Out​


Kinmen’s cuisine reflects its location between Taiwan and Fujian Province in mainland China. Local dishes combine traditional Minnan (southern Fujian) cooking with Taiwanese influences. In addition, the island’s coastal waters provide plenty of seafood, while farms supply fresh vegetables and pork. Kinmen is also known for its locally produced sorghum liquor.

There are many restaurants in Jincheng Old Town and the other towns on Kinmen Island.

Visa Requirements​

My Taiwan passport stamps - with an exit from Kinmen Island to mainland China by ferry.

My Taiwan passport stamps – with an exit from Kinmen Island to mainland China by ferry.


Taiwan allows visa-free entry for citizens of many countries, although the permitted stay depends on nationality. Travellers who do not qualify for visa-free entry—shown in grey on the map below—generally need to arrange a visa before departure.

The visa policy map of Taiwan.

The visa policy map of Taiwan.


Citizens of many European countries, the United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Japan and South Korea can generally visit Taiwan visa-free for up to 90 days. Other nationalities may qualify for 30 days or less, so check the rules for your passport before travelling.

On the visa policy map (above), green indicates nationalities that can visit Taiwan visa-free for 90 days. Travellers shown in light green must apply for an e-Visa. Chinese citizens must apply for an entry/exit permit for Taiwan.

Getting There​

I flew to Kinmen Island from Taipei with Uni Air.

I flew to Kinmen Island from Taipei with Uni Air.

Air​

My boarding pass for my flight from Taipei to Kinmen Island.

My boarding pass for my flight from Taipei to Kinmen Island.


Kinmen Airport (IATA: KNH), officially known as Shangyi Airport, receives domestic flights from two Taiwanese regional airlines: UNI Air and Mandarin Airlines. Both connect Kinmen with Taiwan’s main island.

  • UNI Air: Connects Kinmen with destinations such as Taipei, Taichung, Kaohsiung and Tainan. Routes and frequencies vary by date.
  • Mandarin Airlines: Connects Kinmen with Taipei, Taichung and Kaohsiung, depending on the current timetable.
Flight departure board from Taipei Songshan Airport.

Flight departure board from Taipei Songshan Airport.


Flights from Taipei to Kinmen depart from Taipei Songshan Airport (IATA: TSA), which lies in the heart of the city. Kinmen generally has no scheduled international passenger flights. Therefore, most overseas visitors first fly to Taiwan, connect through Taipei or another domestic airport, and then take a domestic flight to Kinmen.

Airport Transport​


Taxis wait outside the arrivals hall. A typical fare to central Jincheng costs around NT$200–300.

Sea​

Ferries between China and Kinmen Island operate from the modern and efficient Shuitou Passenger Terminal on Kinmen Island.

Ferries between China and Kinmen Island operate from the modern and efficient Shuitou Passenger Terminal on Kinmen Island.

Ferry Services Between China and Kinmen​


Two main ferry routes connect Kinmen Island with mainland China under Taiwan’s Mini Three Links transport arrangement. Both arrive at Shuitou Passenger Terminal on Kinmen.

Xiamen – Kinmen:

Frequent ferries (12 per day) operate between the modern, and very large, Wutong Ferry Terminal in Xiamen City and Kinmen Island with a crossing time of 30 minutes. Fares costs around RMB 160 from Xiamen, or NT$650 from Kinmen.

This is the most convenient route for most travellers coming from Xiamen. Multiple ferry operators serve the route, with departures spread throughout the day.

Quanzhou – Kinmen:

Around two return trips per day operate from Shijing Port, Quanzhou to Shuitou Passenger Terminal on Kinmen with a journey time of 60 minutes. Fares cost around RMB 160 from Quanzhou, or NT$650 from Kinmen.

This route is useful for travellers visiting Quanzhou and other parts of Fujian Province. Sailing frequency and departure times can change according to demand.

Tip: If you are travelling to China, it is best to complete the China Arrival Card online, prior to boarding the ferry.

Booking Ferry Tickets​

My fast ferry which carried me from Kinmen Island to mainland China in 30 minutes.

My fast ferry which carried me from Kinmen Island to mainland China in 30 minutes.


Book ferry tickets online in advance through the Wujiang Ferry Company website.

Getting Around​

I explored the sights of Kinmen Island using a rental car.

I explored the sights of Kinmen Island using a rental car.

Public Transport​


Public buses connect Kinmen’s main towns, villages, military attractions and transport terminals. The island has no railway or metro, but buses offer an affordable way to explore historic villages, Cold War fortifications and coastal scenery. However, many attractions sit in rural areas, and some routes run infrequently. If you have limited time, consider combining buses with taxis or a rental scooter.

Public buses​


Kinmen’s bus network links the main towns of Jincheng, Shanwai and Shamei with many tourist attractions. Buses also connect Kinmen Airport and Shuitou Ferry Terminal with the main urban areas.

Use the Kinmen Bus website to view route maps for services across the island. Bus fares depend on the number of zones travelled: one zone costs NT$12 and two zones cost NT$24. Pay onboard with exact cash, an EasyCard (used throughout Taiwan) or iPASS. Buses generally run from early morning to evening, although some routes offer limited or no service after about 9 p.m.

Taxi​


Taxis offer a convenient way to explore Kinmen, especially if you want to visit military tunnels, historic forts and traditional villages that buses do not serve well. You can find taxis at Kinmen Airport, Shuitou Ferry Terminal and major bus stations. Alternatively, arrange a pickup by phone or through your accommodation.

To book a taxi, ask your hotel to arrange one or call +886 82 322 381.

Taxi Sightseeing Tours​


Some drivers offer half-day and full-day sightseeing tours, combining transport with local guiding. This option can help you visit Zhaishan Tunnel, Shishan Howitzer Front, Guningtou Battle Museum and Shuitou Village in a single day.

Rental Car​

The car license plate on my rental car.

The car license plate on my rental car.


Renting a car is a convenient way to explore Kinmen, especially if you want to visit scattered military fortifications, traditional Fujian-style villages, coastal scenery and historic sites. Although buses and taxis are available, a rental car gives you more flexibility and lets you explore at your own pace.

To rent a car, you need a valid driver’s licence and an International Driving Permit (IDP). If you do not have the required documents, you may be able to rent an e-scooter that does not require a licence and has a maximum speed of 25 km/h. Check current local rules before renting.

A compact car typically costs NT$1,600–1,800 per day, while an e-scooter costs around NT$300 per day.



That brings me to the end of my Kinmen Island Travel Guide. If you wish to leave feedback or comments, you can do so using the form below or by contacting me through the contact page.

Safe Travels!

Darren





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