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One of the country’s most stunning road trips showcases iconic Southwest landscapes.
:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc():format(jpeg)/TAL-best-time-to-drive-HWY12UT0526-a0b2dc8e197c403e85118d97fcc80bbe.jpg "Cars driving along Utah Highway 12.Credit: Ben/Adobe Stock")
Cars driving along Utah Highway 12.
Credit: Ben/Adobe Stock
Featured in countless movies, paintings, and other artworks, the otherworldly sandstone of southern Utah is a quintessential part of the West’s legendary landscapes. These rock formations have inspired and attracted countless people since time immemorial. And one of the best ways to see it is by driving Utah’s Scenic Byway 12.
Winding from Panguitch, Utah, in the west to the small town of Torrey in the east, the highway consists of just over 122 miles of primarily two-lane asphalt. Along this designated “All-American Road” (aka a road that is a destination unto itself), drivers will pass undulating waves of red, cream, and ochre sandstone, two national parks, and plenty of stops providing historical information about this unique corner of the Southwest.
Just about any driver will instantly understand the route’s appeal, but to fully appreciate Scenic Byway 12, you may want to do a little digging ahead of time.
“If people could pick up a geology book or do some research online, they’d be fascinated by how they’re literally traveling through time on different sections of Highway 12,” says Kandee DeGraw, a former park ranger and an employee at tour operator Escalante Outfitters. “It’s stunning. Every five miles, they’re looking at a different layer, which has totally different stone, different erosion, different vegetation.”
Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip on Utah’s Scenic Byway 12.
Red rock archway along Highway 12.
Credit: Leamus/Getty Images
Since Highway 12 gets snowy and icy during winter and searingly hot and dry during summer, you should typically try to plan your trip for spring or fall. “The summer can be really hot, and it makes using the overlooks a little uncomfortable,” says DeGraw. “In the winter, you’re not getting the greenery; you’re driving through several passes, and they can be challenging.”
Spring and fall, on the other hand, are popular times for visitors to tackle the route. It’s usually cooler at these times of year, though you should check the weather forecast in advance for any sudden changes. You might even get to see vibrant foliage in the aspen and cottonwood groves during autumn.
While summer or winter aren’t necessarily recommended, these seasons bring unique experiences, like swimming in local watering holes or snapping photos of colorful hoodoos in the snow. Just be sure to exercise caution during the hottest and coldest months of the year: keep a close eye on the forecast, pack tire chains, and bring along extra drinking water in case of emergencies.
Utah’s Highway 12 curves through Red Canyon.
Credit: Bob/Adobe Stock
Scenic Byway 12 consists of paved—but steep—winding, two-lane roads with some hairpin turns. That means that if you have anyone in the car who’s afraid of heights or gets carsick, plan accordingly. If you want to make an off-road foray or two into the desert landscapes around the byway, you’ll need the right kind of car. “Most of the roads are dirt, so they would want a high-clearance vehicle,” says DeGraw.
On that note, Highway 12 winds through some of the most isolated parts of Utah, so you can easily go miles before finding a patch of cell service. Bring analog maps or download the route onto your phone in advance so you know where you’re headed. You should also plot out your fuel stops, since finding gas stations in this rugged area can be tricky. Plus, notes DeGraw, “Bring layers. You’ll drive 30 miles, and the temperature will drop 10 degrees.”
While it’s possible to run through the entire route in about three hours, you should plan to spend at least a few days on the road. “Having spent a lot of time with visitors, the one thing that bums me out is when they’re stressed out about time, and they don’t give themselves two days to enjoy it,” says DeGraw. “They just cruise on through. When they’re stressed, they’re not going to get that vastness and quiet that you can get out here because you’re so far away from any city or rush of humanity.”
To embrace that slower pace, spend the night in one of Escalante Outfitters’ cozy log cabins, kitted out with comfortable beds, clean sheets, and heating and air conditioning. You can also book a vacation rental home along Highway 12 or check out the various lodging and camping options in Bryce Canyon National Park and Capitol Reef National Park, at the western and eastern ends of the route, respectively.
Scenic view of Bryce Canyon National Park.
Credit: Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure
Starting from the western terminus of Scenic Byway 12 near Panguitch, you’ll first pass through Red Canyon. Part of the Dixie National Forest (and once a stop for the legendary Butch Cassidy along the former Outlaw Trail), this desert wonder is a showcase of terra-cotta-colored limestone towers. Red Canyon gives drivers a taste of all that’s to come along the route, and has several hiking trails to stretch your legs before settling in for the ride.
About 15 miles past Red Canyon, you’ll reach Bryce Canyon National Park. This iconic Southwest destination generally needs no introduction, but for those not in the know, Bryce Canyon is famous for its limestone arches and hoodoos that crop up from a sprawling valley floor. The views are especially impressive with a fresh coat of snow during winter, but regardless of when you drive Scenic Byway 12, stop here to soak up the sights from vista points and short trails like the one-mile Bristlecone Loop.
After you get back on the highway, your next stop should be Kodachrome Basin State Park, a desert wilderness filled with sandstone cliffs and 67 stone spires, the vibrant hues of which give the park its name. Stop here to snap some pics and picnic beneath the rocks. You can even grab snacks at the Kodachrome Basin State Park visitor’s center—after learning all about the park, of course.
Once you hit the road again and pass the town of Escalante, you’ll start to notice a shift in both elevation and scenery. Along a section known as the Hogback for its craggy sandstone ridges, Scenic Byway 12 rapidly gains in height as you enter one of the best-known parts of the nearly 182,000-acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Here, ribbons of flowing sandstone stretch as far as the eye can see. “Give yourself some time to stop at the overlooks, because if you miss those, you’re missing so many spectacular views through all kinds of federal lands,” says DeGraw. “They invest a lot in the overlooks, and they’re worth it.”
You can also get a closer look at Grand Staircase-Escalante’s terrain along the six-mile hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls Trail. One of southern Utah’s most popular hikes, the route follows Calf Creek to a 126-foot waterfall with a crystal-clear swimming hole at its base.
The scenery continues back on Highway 12, though you should also take some time to explore the history and culture of the region. In Boulder, Utah, Anasazi State Park Museum delves into the culture of the Anasazi people, also called the Ancestral Pueblans, who occupied the area from roughly 1050 to 1200.
“The visitor center was built right next to a very old village. You can walk around the foundations, and they also rebuilt some of the ruins,” says DeGraw. “The visitor center has a lot of information about the area, the geology, the paleontology, and the hikes.”
After making your way through the museum and ruins, your road trip is almost done. An hour’s drive past Boulder, Utah, you’ll reach Capitol Reef National Park, where golden sandstone cliffs, canyons, domes, and bridges form a natural playground ripe for adventure after a day or two in the car. Wander through the orchards at the pioneer town of Fruita, hike trails like the Hickman Bridge, which culminates in a towering natural arch, and stick around after dusk to stargaze at one of the best International Dark Sky Parks in the world.
Overnight visitors can pitch a tent at one of the 71 sites at Fruita Campground, the only developed lodging within Capitol Reef. Anyone who doesn’t mind a more rugged stay should try to nab a free, first-come, first-served site at one of the park’s two primitive campgrounds, Cathedral Valley Campground and Cedar Mesa Campground.
Cars driving along Utah Highway 12.
Credit: Ben/Adobe Stock
Key Points
- Utah’s Scenic Byway 12 runs just over 122 miles from Panguitch to Torrey through some of southern Utah’s most dramatic sandstone landscapes.
- The route passes Red Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Kodachrome Basin, Grand Staircase-Escalante, Boulder, and Capitol Reef National Park.
- Spring and fall are the best times to drive, while travelers should plan for steep roads, limited cell service, and changing temperatures.
Featured in countless movies, paintings, and other artworks, the otherworldly sandstone of southern Utah is a quintessential part of the West’s legendary landscapes. These rock formations have inspired and attracted countless people since time immemorial. And one of the best ways to see it is by driving Utah’s Scenic Byway 12.
Winding from Panguitch, Utah, in the west to the small town of Torrey in the east, the highway consists of just over 122 miles of primarily two-lane asphalt. Along this designated “All-American Road” (aka a road that is a destination unto itself), drivers will pass undulating waves of red, cream, and ochre sandstone, two national parks, and plenty of stops providing historical information about this unique corner of the Southwest.
Just about any driver will instantly understand the route’s appeal, but to fully appreciate Scenic Byway 12, you may want to do a little digging ahead of time.
“If people could pick up a geology book or do some research online, they’d be fascinated by how they’re literally traveling through time on different sections of Highway 12,” says Kandee DeGraw, a former park ranger and an employee at tour operator Escalante Outfitters. “It’s stunning. Every five miles, they’re looking at a different layer, which has totally different stone, different erosion, different vegetation.”
Here’s what you need to know before planning a trip on Utah’s Scenic Byway 12.
Best Time to Drive
Red rock archway along Highway 12.
Credit: Leamus/Getty Images
Since Highway 12 gets snowy and icy during winter and searingly hot and dry during summer, you should typically try to plan your trip for spring or fall. “The summer can be really hot, and it makes using the overlooks a little uncomfortable,” says DeGraw. “In the winter, you’re not getting the greenery; you’re driving through several passes, and they can be challenging.”
Spring and fall, on the other hand, are popular times for visitors to tackle the route. It’s usually cooler at these times of year, though you should check the weather forecast in advance for any sudden changes. You might even get to see vibrant foliage in the aspen and cottonwood groves during autumn.
While summer or winter aren’t necessarily recommended, these seasons bring unique experiences, like swimming in local watering holes or snapping photos of colorful hoodoos in the snow. Just be sure to exercise caution during the hottest and coldest months of the year: keep a close eye on the forecast, pack tire chains, and bring along extra drinking water in case of emergencies.
Know Before You Go
Utah’s Highway 12 curves through Red Canyon.
Credit: Bob/Adobe Stock
Scenic Byway 12 consists of paved—but steep—winding, two-lane roads with some hairpin turns. That means that if you have anyone in the car who’s afraid of heights or gets carsick, plan accordingly. If you want to make an off-road foray or two into the desert landscapes around the byway, you’ll need the right kind of car. “Most of the roads are dirt, so they would want a high-clearance vehicle,” says DeGraw.
On that note, Highway 12 winds through some of the most isolated parts of Utah, so you can easily go miles before finding a patch of cell service. Bring analog maps or download the route onto your phone in advance so you know where you’re headed. You should also plot out your fuel stops, since finding gas stations in this rugged area can be tricky. Plus, notes DeGraw, “Bring layers. You’ll drive 30 miles, and the temperature will drop 10 degrees.”
While it’s possible to run through the entire route in about three hours, you should plan to spend at least a few days on the road. “Having spent a lot of time with visitors, the one thing that bums me out is when they’re stressed out about time, and they don’t give themselves two days to enjoy it,” says DeGraw. “They just cruise on through. When they’re stressed, they’re not going to get that vastness and quiet that you can get out here because you’re so far away from any city or rush of humanity.”
To embrace that slower pace, spend the night in one of Escalante Outfitters’ cozy log cabins, kitted out with comfortable beds, clean sheets, and heating and air conditioning. You can also book a vacation rental home along Highway 12 or check out the various lodging and camping options in Bryce Canyon National Park and Capitol Reef National Park, at the western and eastern ends of the route, respectively.
Stops Along the Route
Scenic view of Bryce Canyon National Park.
Credit: Taylor McIntyre/Travel + Leisure
Starting from the western terminus of Scenic Byway 12 near Panguitch, you’ll first pass through Red Canyon. Part of the Dixie National Forest (and once a stop for the legendary Butch Cassidy along the former Outlaw Trail), this desert wonder is a showcase of terra-cotta-colored limestone towers. Red Canyon gives drivers a taste of all that’s to come along the route, and has several hiking trails to stretch your legs before settling in for the ride.
About 15 miles past Red Canyon, you’ll reach Bryce Canyon National Park. This iconic Southwest destination generally needs no introduction, but for those not in the know, Bryce Canyon is famous for its limestone arches and hoodoos that crop up from a sprawling valley floor. The views are especially impressive with a fresh coat of snow during winter, but regardless of when you drive Scenic Byway 12, stop here to soak up the sights from vista points and short trails like the one-mile Bristlecone Loop.
After you get back on the highway, your next stop should be Kodachrome Basin State Park, a desert wilderness filled with sandstone cliffs and 67 stone spires, the vibrant hues of which give the park its name. Stop here to snap some pics and picnic beneath the rocks. You can even grab snacks at the Kodachrome Basin State Park visitor’s center—after learning all about the park, of course.
Once you hit the road again and pass the town of Escalante, you’ll start to notice a shift in both elevation and scenery. Along a section known as the Hogback for its craggy sandstone ridges, Scenic Byway 12 rapidly gains in height as you enter one of the best-known parts of the nearly 182,000-acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Here, ribbons of flowing sandstone stretch as far as the eye can see. “Give yourself some time to stop at the overlooks, because if you miss those, you’re missing so many spectacular views through all kinds of federal lands,” says DeGraw. “They invest a lot in the overlooks, and they’re worth it.”
You can also get a closer look at Grand Staircase-Escalante’s terrain along the six-mile hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls Trail. One of southern Utah’s most popular hikes, the route follows Calf Creek to a 126-foot waterfall with a crystal-clear swimming hole at its base.
The scenery continues back on Highway 12, though you should also take some time to explore the history and culture of the region. In Boulder, Utah, Anasazi State Park Museum delves into the culture of the Anasazi people, also called the Ancestral Pueblans, who occupied the area from roughly 1050 to 1200.
“The visitor center was built right next to a very old village. You can walk around the foundations, and they also rebuilt some of the ruins,” says DeGraw. “The visitor center has a lot of information about the area, the geology, the paleontology, and the hikes.”
After making your way through the museum and ruins, your road trip is almost done. An hour’s drive past Boulder, Utah, you’ll reach Capitol Reef National Park, where golden sandstone cliffs, canyons, domes, and bridges form a natural playground ripe for adventure after a day or two in the car. Wander through the orchards at the pioneer town of Fruita, hike trails like the Hickman Bridge, which culminates in a towering natural arch, and stick around after dusk to stargaze at one of the best International Dark Sky Parks in the world.
Overnight visitors can pitch a tent at one of the 71 sites at Fruita Campground, the only developed lodging within Capitol Reef. Anyone who doesn’t mind a more rugged stay should try to nab a free, first-come, first-served site at one of the park’s two primitive campgrounds, Cathedral Valley Campground and Cedar Mesa Campground.